On A basic anthopologic and historic work by Eric Hobsbawm and Terence Ranger.
Hugh Trevor-Roper wrote a crucial essay about Tartan and clansmen inventing in the 1700s.
The 1700s is also the century when King Gustav III of Sweden drew a folk costume (in 1778), which he found as a useful and rational effort for his people. Since, hundreds and hundreds of parishes has formed their parish costume out of the royal model!
”This literary invention was matched by the creation of the Highland tartan by Thomas Rawlinson, a member of well established English Quaker family. In 1727, he made an agreement with a local Scottish chieftain to lease a wooded area and operate a furnace to create charcoal for industrial operations on the north of England. While he was there, he became interested in the Scottish costume as it related to the efficiency of his own workers, who wore a ”belted plaid” that was inconvenient for work in and around the furnace. He used an English tailor to create the ”felid beg,” phlbeg, or ”small kilt”, which was achieved by separating the skirt from the plaid and converting it into a distinct garment, with pleats already sewn. Rawlinison himself wore this new garment, and his example was followed by his Scottish associate, Ian MacDonnell of Glengarry. After that, the clansmen, as always, obediently followed their chief and was promptly adopted by the rest of Highland Scotland.”
(Quote from book review http://catdirtsez.blogspot.se/2014/10/the-invention-of-tradition-1983-edited.html)
”ye principal clovris of ye clanne Stewart” tartan, as published in the Vestiarium Scoticum. Modern thread count: R6 W56 Bk6 W6 Bk6 W6 g26 R16 Bk2 R2 W2.
Like Swedish King Gustav III:s costume; the 1700s Rawlinson in 1727 had its imagined inspirational clothing models. Nevertheless; it is the 1700s view, on how the 1500s did look like, which were governing how the new folk costumes appeared.